FAQ
Refractor
The refracting
telescope is thought to have been invented in 1608 by Dutch optician Hans
Lippershey, who quite by accident discovered that magnified images were produced
when placing one lens in front of another. Hence, a refractor is a telescope
that takes advantage of the refraction of light through lenses to form images of
objects. There are several designs of refractors out on the market today, but
the most simple consists of just two lenses... the objective, or main
light-gathering lens, and the eyepiece, which magnifies the image. All other
variations invented through the years are still based on this simple design.
It is interesting to note that Galileo was the first astronomer to make
serious regular telescopic observations with the refractor. He improved the
simple design of Lippershey's telescope (which is why refractors are sometimes
referred to as "Galilean" telescopes) as soon as he got word of the patent, and
with that telescope (his first telescope magnified objects nine times, the
second magnified images thirty times) made astounding discoveries that would lay
the foundations for mathematical physics and prove Copernicus's heliocentric
(Sun-centered) theory. Quite a history...
There are two basic types of
refractors on the market today, achromatic and apochromatic, plus one
refractor-style spotting scope; the prismatic design. All three are covered
below:
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Achromatic Refractors
This
refractor type is the least expensive and is traditionally a two- or three-lens
system made from crown and flint glass. These types of glass were developed in
the 1880's to reduce "chromatic aberration", or color fringing around bright
objects. While the 60mm altazimuth or equatorial refractor is a popular choice
as a first telescope, consider spending a little more and investing in either an
80mm or 90mm refractor. The glass is usually of higher quality, the coatings are
better and the additional light-gathering will allow you to see brighter images
in greater detail than those produced through a smaller, mass-produced lens.
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The
first apochromatic (also referred to as "APO") lens was invented by the German
physicist, Abbe. Instead of basic two-element designs like the achromatic, the
apochromatic refractor uses either three or four lenses, each made of a
different material; a two-element lens, one of which is fluorite; or a newer
two-element design of ED, or "extra-low dispersion" glass. The use of these
newer materials and designs allows for a system which is virtually free of color
fringing or chromatic aberration, which is the biggest obstacle to overcome when
producing any refractor. Faster focal length refractors, while sought after
because of their portability, also have the most stubborn color fringing, so the
invention of the apochromatic design is a boon to those of us who want to take
our refractor everywhere. Of course, apochromatic refractors are more expensive,
but the views through them are exquisite, providing a velvety background and
pinpoint star images.
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"Prismatic" Spotting Scopes
Prismatic
spotting scopes use lenses to gather light just like your ordinary refractor,
but have an image-erecting prism built into them, placed just before the
eyepiece. This allows for a right-side-up, left-to-right correct view. The
eyepiece (the part that you look in) comes in two "flavors", either a "zoom" or
"fixed" design. The most popular of these two is the zoom spotting scope. This
type of scope has a magnification range built into it... usually somewhere
between 15 times to 60 times as far as your eye can see, and you control the
level of magnification by rotating a little knob or dial. The second type of
refracting spotting scope has a fixed magnification eyepiece attached to it.
Most of these scopes have additional, higher magnification eyepieces available
as optional equipment.
Refracting spotting scopes are extremely portable
and rugged (some are even waterproof), and attach at the bottom to a
photographic tripod of any brand. If you don't have a tripod, make sure and get
a sturdy one to help create a stable image. If you are interested in attaching a
camera to your spotting scope, make sure this is an option. Some brands have the
ability, some don't. If you have more than a passing interest in doing
photography through your spotting scope, we recommend the second style mentioned
in these pages... Catadioptric, otherwise known as Schmidt-Cassegrain or
Maksutov spotting scopes, because of their larger light-gathering capacity and
the stubbiness of the design, which helps assist even further in stability at
high power.
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Refractor Pro's &
Con's
Pro's:
- Provides sharp images coupled with rugged construction
- Longer focal lengths provide better contrast while shorter APO/ED focal
lengths give great contrast AND portability
- Because there is no central obstruction, there is also no power that is "too
low"
- Closed tube prevents dust & moisture from entering the system
- Lenses very rarely need to be collimated or "aligned"
- Smaller models are less susceptible to thermal currents
- Makes a good spotting scope because image is "right-side up"
- New, apochromatic designs (shorter focal lengths) of 4" or less are
extremely portable
Con's:
- Becomes expensive over 90mm (most expensive per inch of aperture of all
designs)
- All refractors except the more expensive APO designs have at least some
chromatic aberration (purple fringing around bright objects)
- Narrow field of view in the longer focal lengths
- Long focal length refractors become very cumbersome in apertures over 90mm,
and need a heavy mount to support them There are two basic
types of mounts
for the refractor:
Altazimuth
Altazimuth mounts (also called "Alt-Az" for short) are the most simple
to operate, and work best for spotting scopes or a telescope where the bulk of
it's intended use is for daytime viewing. These mounts move the optical tube in
straight lines... either up and down or back and forth (north/south/east/west),
and include the tripod. Some alt-az mounts have "slow-motion control cables" to
help you move the telescope slowly in any of these directions whilst viewing an
object. On alt-az mounts, these cables hang down for easy access to your hands,
or else exist as knobs or dials on an equatorial mount. Camera or video tripods
would be a good example of an alt-az mount.
Equatorial
To put it simply, an
equatorial mount allows you to follow objects as the earth rotates, which causes
those objects to seem to move through the sky. The mount is set at your latitude
(mine is 33° North), and then is polar-aligned (to either the North Celestial
Pole in the Northern Hemisphere or the South Celestial Pole in the Southern
Hemisphere). After that, you just need to move the telescope, usually via it's
slow-motion control cables or dials, in either Right Ascension (east to west
movement of the stars, or celestial latitude) or Declination (north-south
movement of the stars, or celestial longitude) to follow a planet or deep-sky
object as it slowly moves through the field of view as seen through your
eyepiece. This type mount is a bit more bulky than an altazimuth design, but it
is desirable in that you can usually attach an optional motor to the mount,
which counteracts the earth's rotation automatically. These mounts also come
standard with a tripod attached.
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