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TV76 APO Telescope - Evergreen Televue
TV76 APO Telescope - Evergreen
Price $1560.00
SolarMax 60 Adapter Plate - WO Megrez 80 Coronado
SolarMax 60 Adapter Plate - WO Megrez 80
Price $191.00
FAQ

Refractor

The refracting telescope is thought to have been invented in 1608 by Dutch optician Hans Lippershey, who quite by accident discovered that magnified images were produced when placing one lens in front of another. Hence, a refractor is a telescope that takes advantage of the refraction of light through lenses to form images of objects. There are several designs of refractors out on the market today, but the most simple consists of just two lenses... the objective, or main light-gathering lens, and the eyepiece, which magnifies the image. All other variations invented through the years are still based on this simple design.

It is interesting to note that Galileo was the first astronomer to make serious regular telescopic observations with the refractor. He improved the simple design of Lippershey's telescope (which is why refractors are sometimes referred to as "Galilean" telescopes) as soon as he got word of the patent, and with that telescope (his first telescope magnified objects nine times, the second magnified images thirty times) made astounding discoveries that would lay the foundations for mathematical physics and prove Copernicus's heliocentric (Sun-centered) theory. Quite a history...

There are two basic types of refractors on the market today, achromatic and apochromatic, plus one refractor-style spotting scope; the prismatic design. All three are covered below:

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Achromatic Refractors

This refractor type is the least expensive and is traditionally a two- or three-lens system made from crown and flint glass. These types of glass were developed in the 1880's to reduce "chromatic aberration", or color fringing around bright objects. While the 60mm altazimuth or equatorial refractor is a popular choice as a first telescope, consider spending a little more and investing in either an 80mm or 90mm refractor. The glass is usually of higher quality, the coatings are better and the additional light-gathering will allow you to see brighter images in greater detail than those produced through a smaller, mass-produced lens.

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BRApochromatic Refractors

The first apochromatic (also referred to as "APO") lens was invented by the German physicist, Abbe. Instead of basic two-element designs like the achromatic, the apochromatic refractor uses either three or four lenses, each made of a different material; a two-element lens, one of which is fluorite; or a newer two-element design of ED, or "extra-low dispersion" glass. The use of these newer materials and designs allows for a system which is virtually free of color fringing or chromatic aberration, which is the biggest obstacle to overcome when producing any refractor. Faster focal length refractors, while sought after because of their portability, also have the most stubborn color fringing, so the invention of the apochromatic design is a boon to those of us who want to take our refractor everywhere. Of course, apochromatic refractors are more expensive, but the views through them are exquisite, providing a velvety background and pinpoint star images.

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"Prismatic" Spotting Scopes

Prismatic spotting scopes use lenses to gather light just like your ordinary refractor, but have an image-erecting prism built into them, placed just before the eyepiece. This allows for a right-side-up, left-to-right correct view. The eyepiece (the part that you look in) comes in two "flavors", either a "zoom" or "fixed" design. The most popular of these two is the zoom spotting scope. This type of scope has a magnification range built into it... usually somewhere between 15 times to 60 times as far as your eye can see, and you control the level of magnification by rotating a little knob or dial. The second type of refracting spotting scope has a fixed magnification eyepiece attached to it. Most of these scopes have additional, higher magnification eyepieces available as optional equipment.

Refracting spotting scopes are extremely portable and rugged (some are even waterproof), and attach at the bottom to a photographic tripod of any brand. If you don't have a tripod, make sure and get a sturdy one to help create a stable image. If you are interested in attaching a camera to your spotting scope, make sure this is an option. Some brands have the ability, some don't. If you have more than a passing interest in doing photography through your spotting scope, we recommend the second style mentioned in these pages... Catadioptric, otherwise known as Schmidt-Cassegrain or Maksutov spotting scopes, because of their larger light-gathering capacity and the stubbiness of the design, which helps assist even further in stability at high power.

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Refractor Pro's & Con's

Pro's:

  • Provides sharp images coupled with rugged construction
  • Longer focal lengths provide better contrast while shorter APO/ED focal lengths give great contrast AND portability
  • Because there is no central obstruction, there is also no power that is "too low"
  • Closed tube prevents dust & moisture from entering the system
  • Lenses very rarely need to be collimated or "aligned"
  • Smaller models are less susceptible to thermal currents
  • Makes a good spotting scope because image is "right-side up"
  • New, apochromatic designs (shorter focal lengths) of 4" or less are extremely portable
Con's:

  • Becomes expensive over 90mm (most expensive per inch of aperture of all designs)
  • All refractors except the more expensive APO designs have at least some chromatic aberration (purple fringing around bright objects)
  • Narrow field of view in the longer focal lengths
  • Long focal length refractors become very cumbersome in apertures over 90mm, and need a heavy mount to support them There are two basic
    types of mounts for the refractor:
Altazimuth

Altazimuth mounts (also called "Alt-Az" for short) are the most simple to operate, and work best for spotting scopes or a telescope where the bulk of it's intended use is for daytime viewing. These mounts move the optical tube in straight lines... either up and down or back and forth (north/south/east/west), and include the tripod. Some alt-az mounts have "slow-motion control cables" to help you move the telescope slowly in any of these directions whilst viewing an object. On alt-az mounts, these cables hang down for easy access to your hands, or else exist as knobs or dials on an equatorial mount. Camera or video tripods would be a good example of an alt-az mount.

Equatorial

To put it simply, an equatorial mount allows you to follow objects as the earth rotates, which causes those objects to seem to move through the sky. The mount is set at your latitude (mine is 33° North), and then is polar-aligned (to either the North Celestial Pole in the Northern Hemisphere or the South Celestial Pole in the Southern Hemisphere). After that, you just need to move the telescope, usually via it's slow-motion control cables or dials, in either Right Ascension (east to west movement of the stars, or celestial latitude) or Declination (north-south movement of the stars, or celestial longitude) to follow a planet or deep-sky object as it slowly moves through the field of view as seen through your eyepiece. This type mount is a bit more bulky than an altazimuth design, but it is desirable in that you can usually attach an optional motor to the mount, which counteracts the earth's rotation automatically. These mounts also come standard with a tripod attached.
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